William and Kate Blake

I have just finished reading a fascinating book about a famous artist-printmaker-poet and his wife. As a printmaker, I found this passage particularly intriguing to find in a historical novel:

William and I began to be real partners in Printing. He had been teaching me for a long time to assist him at the big wooden press. It was not usual for Engravers to keep Copper-plate presses in their houses, so we were proud of ours. It stood six feet tall, made of sturdy polished oak.

There were two other important tasks which went into Printing. One was the preparation of Paper, and the other was of Ink.

“We must print on the best paper we can afford,” William always said.

So we bought wove paper from James Whatman, which was heavier than ordinary paper and did not have the chain lines that usual papers showed from the mould in which they were made. We dampened our sheets of paper the day before we were to print, passing five or six leaves through a flat tub of water two or three times, and then stacking them on a flat board to keep them very smooth.

Ink was a big part of our lives: it was messy, but I loved it. We used to make our own, mixing powdered pigment with burnt linseed oil. Burning the oil was a smelly business. First it was boiled, and then set on fire. This made the oil properly stiff to mix with the pigments. Then we would grind the oil and pigment on a marble slab till it was the right thickness.

The colours of inks were wonderful. At first we only used blue-blacks or brown blacks, but later when William produced his own books, we used red ochre, yellow ochre, raw sienna, burnt umber, Prussian blue. William taught me how to ink a plate with a linen dabber and to wipe off the plate’s surface with the palm of my hand. What a mess! The Print is a Marriage of ink and paper, as Engravers always say. Or it is a baby, born from the marriage, under blankets on the Bed of the press. We hung the prints up to dry on a clothesline, like baby clothes.

This is quoted from pages 80-81 of Other Sorrows, Other Joys – The Marriage of Catherine Sophia Boucher and William Blake by Janet Warner. Here’s a good description of the book.

The story, mostly in the voice of Kate Blake as she was called, is part fiction, part fact and reveals the challenges of her marriage to this famous artist, her devotion to helping him in his work and how she became an artist herself but without the recognition as was often the case back then. The book includes many images of Blake’s work and interesting historical times and characters too! The late author Janet Warner’s web site* reveals that she was a university professor originally from British Columbia and had written an earlier book on Blake. I enjoyed the site with its brief bio, excerpts from the book and a few links.

This book was certainly a serendipitous find when I was in the library unexpectedly one day last month but without my reading wish list. I’ve always been intrigued by Blake’s work, even blogging about it once, so it was great to read about the challenges he met, with his helpmeet, in earning a living while still trying to remain committed to his own visionary work.

UPDATE October 5th: I’ve just come across this in my morning net wanderings and it feels too too related not to mention: Mad genius: Study suggests link between psychosis and creativity.
What do you think?

* Update Nov.16, 2013: Link has expired and has been removed.

the Greenwich tour

Back to my travel diary and our last few but extra busy days in London….

Our ‘Londoner’ daughter had once taken one of the walking tours of London and enjoyed it so she suggested we all take the Historic Greenwich tour because it combined a boat ride on the Thames as well as the walk. We thought the children would particularly enjoy it.

A bus and tube ride to the meeting point by The Tower started that sunny Sunday in early May. A surprisingly large group showed up but our expected guide did not because his tube was down that morning. Soon a replacement came, a pleasant and energetic fellow but we were to learn, not as knowledgeable and often rather difficult to hear over the large group. So, I don’t have all the names and facts of what we saw. Check out their description and interesting video on their website.

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The half hour boat ride was very enjoyable as we passed under the Tower Bridge and past a mix of older and modern architecture. Coming in to Greenwich we could see the unique clock of the Royal Observatory. We were guided around immense classically designed buildings, many former royal homes like the Queen’s House, with delightful glimpses of art work like Hans Holbein’s portrait of King Henry VIII. We were entertained by stories of the romances, scandals and foibles of the royals of the day. Our tour ended with a watch of the movement of the timeball on the observatory up on the hill beyond the green green park.

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Afterwards we were on our own for we learned the return trip was not included. We wandered around the town including the flea market, had an ice cream to cool us as we weaved through huge crowds of visitors; I don’t remember now what special event was on in the town that day. Way way past lunch time, kids and adults starving, we found a pub and had good old English fish and chips and ale! We eventually found the train back into London and our tube home, very tired, both happy and a just wee bit disappointed. The children were amazingly well behaved for such a long day and what must have been at times a boring tour for them. Opa’s pocket full of trail mix was a life saver!

Photos by my husband, again, and just a small selection from a great number.

Tunbridge Wells, Joe, Heidi

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Photos top to bottom: The Pantiles area, Heidi (in green jacket) and I chatting, and Joe.

One of the great delights of our trip to England has been the opportunity to meet a few blog friends. I wrote about some earlier meetings here and here in case you missed them.

When Joe Hyam (Plutarch) of Now’s the Time learned that we were interested in possibly visiting the lovely sounding Tunbridge Wells, he and his wife Heidi invited us to come for lunch one day. I first met Joe through Lucy of Box Elder when she announced their poetry and photo collaboration called Compasses. I so enjoyed that and soon found Joe’s own blog and we have been blog friends since.

Joe had sent a map of how to find their place via a leisurely walk from the train station through the Grove, a pretty treed park often mentioned on his blog. At the edge of the park I was surprised and tickled to spot The Compasses pub, another sometime mention. How very clever of him to send us this way! Almost around the corner we then found Joe’s home and were met with a warm and gracious welcome. Joe is just like I imagined from his blog with his gentle humour, erudition and measured speech. When I commented on all the beautiful artwork gracing the walls of their home, I was of course thrilled to learn that Heidi is also an artist and the creator of most of the work. Heidi and my husband even enjoyed a chat in their mutual native tongue, German, and her lively personality made me think of one of his cousins.

We had much great conversation and a fantastic gourmet lunch! I had suspected from his blog that Joe was a great cook and they both are! After the long and leisurely lunch, we were given a little tour of their garden and some of this historical town. All too soon we said our goodbyes and thank you’s and hopped on the train back to London.

Once again, I have to say this blogging experience has given such great rewards in the friends we’ve made and been able to meet. Instead of the too final sounding goodbye, I prefer to say näkemiin or auf wiedersehn – see you again!

PS – Suddenly remembered that Joe had written a few words about our meeting, the very next day.

PPS – If you are interested and haven’t read the earlier posts on our recent trip to the UK and Paris, please click on the theme Travel on the side bar or here.

Ancient Britain: Avebury

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Last of our destinations during our day long tour of Ancient Britain was Avebury. Like Stonehenge, Avebury is very well-known and many believe it is the superior stone circle. Certainly it is the largest of its kind by area and number of standing stones. I’ve read conflicting information on the original number of stones of which many have been lost or damaged, one site says 98.

My personal impression of the Avebury stone circle was of some disappointment. I was not able to feel the magic I felt at Stonehenge. Certainly it was accessible, being able to walk into the enclosed pastures and right up and among the stones. Their sizes varied quite a bit, from small to a bit over human height, and the shapes from tall and slim to chunky and square, and all placed at some distance from each other. I knew it would be quite different from Stonehenge’s smaller circle of bigger standing and horizontal stones.

But… there is a road and a town breaking up the circle so we could not see the whole. We were able to walk around one area, much too slowly because we were taking photographs while also stepping carefully around dozing sheep and their droppings. Pastoral and pretty, yes. I wondered if we had gone the best way around for we noticed most of the others walking elsewhere including on the surrounding henge. Perhaps our guide could have been a bit more helpful in suggesting the best walking route. We had arrived late in the day behind schedule, so there was not enough time left to see it all. We finally had to rush for a much-needed bathroom break and a take-out cup of coffee before returning to our van to head back to London. Anyway, essentially it was far too short a time to capture the spirit of the place. That can be and usually is the way with guided tours, I know with some small experience.

As for photography, it seems that the best atmospheric photos are taken early or late in the day or during mist and rain. Almost four years ago I wrote about Avebury linking to a beautiful and informative site that I’m happy to see is still up: Avebury – A Present from the Past. It includes gorgeous photos, stories and information including other related sites in the area, but I can’t judge for the scientific accuracy. Also, this aerial view helped give me a better sense of the Avebury, Silbury Hill and West Kennet Barrow area – wish I’d had it with me on the tour.

As has been said in some of the earlier articles by me and some commentors, a first time tour really is to give general impressions, an overall picture and is helpful in showing what one wants to revisit alone in greater depth. It’s unlikely that we would have been able to cover so many places in one day on our own, which is one reason of course why we took this tour. I would love to spend more time in these ancient places of mystery and power so hopefully there will be another chance for me to revisit these sites, as well as many more, in the future.

I’m so very grateful to my husband for taking so many great photographs on this tour, especially under the time pressures, something that inhibits me from doing it. I just wanted to absorb the feel of these places though sometimes I would point out spots that I particularly wanted photographed. He told me that he was surprised how much he enjoyed this tour which makes me glad since I desired it, researched it and booked it.

Ancient Britain Tour series of articles:
Salisbury
Old Sarum
Wiltshire Flint
Stonehenge
White Horses
Silbury & West Kennet

Ancient Britain: Silbury & West Kennet

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Soon after passing the White Horse we could see Silbury Hill, a huge man-made chalk mound near Avebury. It is the tallest prehistoric man-made mound in Europe and one of the world’s largest.

Composed mainly of chalk and clay excavated from the surrounding area, the mound stands 40 metres (130 ft) high[2] and covers about 5 acres (0.020 km2). It is a display of immense technical skill and prolonged control over labour and resources. Archaeologists calculate that Silbury Hill was built about 4750 years ago and that it took 18 million man-hours, or 500 men working 15 years…. Mackie asserts that no simple late Neolithic tribal structure as usually imagined could have sustained this and similar projects, and envisages an authoritarian theocratic power elite with broad-ranging control across southern Britain.

It still seems a mystery as to why it was built. It is off bounds now but we could see it well from the road and as we walked up a hill or ridge nearby on top of which lies the West Kennet Long Barrow, a Neolithic tomb or barrow. Older than Stonehenge, this too was a marvel of construction and many man hours of labour. Open and accessible, I thought it would be spooky to go in but some clever openings cut into the sod above it gave a little light to see the construction of stones holding up walls and ceiling and reveal a central passage and several adjoining small bays. Spooky though to know this was a tomb.

Our stop was not long enough for serious photography. There are some nice photos at wikipedia, and probably at some of the numerous sites online, and one can also view the inside of West Kennet Long Barrow via this cool interactive VR Panorama.

Avebury is next, our last tour stop before returning to London.

Posts about our Ancient Britain Tour:
Salisbury
Old Sarum
Wiltshire Flint
Stonehenge
White Horses
Avebury

Ancient Britain: White Horses

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Leaving Stonehenge, our drive continued on through the lovely Wiltshire countryside towards nearby Avebury, with a few quick highlights along the way. A very quick sighting was of a White Horse, a chalk hill figure. My husband luckily had the camera handy and managed to capture a couple of blurry photos of it as we rode past. However we didn’t catch its name and forgot to ask later. It looks similar to this image of the Cherhill White Horse and the location sounds about right, but I’m not positive.

I’ve long been intrigued by England’s White Horses, especially the Uffington one. This was our first live sighting, exciting but much too brief. Just over a week later when we were on the Eurostar train somewhere in southeast England heading for Paris, we saw another one, even more briefly and without any warning. We have no photo of that one and by now the particular shape of it has begun to blur in my memory… but not the unexpected thrill of seeing it.

According to the The Wiltshire White Horses site:

Wiltshire is the county for white horses. There are or were at least twenty-four of these hill figures in Britain, with no less than thirteen being in Wiltshire, and another white horse, the oldest of them all, being just over the border in Oxfordshire. Most of the white horses are chalk hill carvings, and the chalk downs of central Wiltshire make it an ideal place for such figures.

Of the thirteen white horses known to have existed in Wiltshire, eight are still visible, and the others have either been lost completely, or are in a sense still there, under the turf, but have long since become grown over and are no longer visible.

Contrary to popular belief, most white horses are not of great antiquity. Only the Uffington white horse is of certain prehistoric origin, being some three thousand years old. Most of the others date from the last three hundred years or so, though the hillside white horse can be a slippery creature, and the origins of some are impossible to establish with any certainty.

There is a wealth of information on the web on hill figures. Here are just a few that I’ve gathered over the past:
The Little Professor’s Links about hill figures
The National Trust: Uffington
A Mouse in France visits Uffington
Grooming a White Horse

EDITED July 14th: Olga of Threading Thoughts wrote the following in a comment on the next post. With much thanks to her knowledge, I’ve added it here:

Yes your photo is of the Cherhill horse. It is such a lovely road that one, either side of Avebury with the horse to the west, and Silbury Hill to the east.
Further along that road to the east, just before Marlborough (with its famous Polly’s tearooms which you must visit next time if you were not taken there on your tour) there is another white horse -the Preshute. It is only visible from the road when there are no leaves on the trees, and because it is so elusive I love it. It is not one of the old ones, and was cut by a schoolboy, and is mentioned on the Wiltshire White Horses website.

Other posts about our Ancient Britain Tour:
Salisbury
Old Sarum
Wiltshire Flint
Stonehenge
Silbury & West Kennet
Avebury

Ancient Britain: Stonehenge

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stonehenge5.jpgWikipedia has a good gathering of all the information and further links to explore.

Instead I want to talk about the experience. Naturally I felt anticipation and excitement to be there after so many years of dreaming about seeing it. I wondered if it might be spoiled by a ‘tourist trap’ but it was okay, for we quickly passed by the tour buses and ignored the gift and ice cream shops, located some distance from the site. Our excellent tour guide quickly and clearly explained the history and construction in front of the educational display wall in the tunnel way under the road. Then we were on our own, walking up towards the stones. They seemed so small in the distance….

At first we felt the pressure of the busloads of visitors impeding the view, jostling each other to snap photos, giggling girls asking to have photos taken of them in front of the stones (do they even really LOOK at the stones?). Then it thinned out and we were able to spend quite a bit of time looking, contemplating and walking around it. For many minutes I stood alone, silent and breathing deeply and looking deeply. It would have been marvellous to be able to walk up and between the stones and touch them, but we could see some of the graffiti and damage and could understand why not. I just felt so grateful to be there.

My husband took numerous and excellent photos. I trusted him to it for he’s the better photographer when it comes to understanding the finer points of the camera and the light conditions and has very steady hands! If I use any of his photos from this trip in my art work, as I probably will, I’ll have to give him credit by making the works ‘collaborations’! Early morning or evening light might have given us more interesting and dramatic photos but I can’t complain for the weather was good for us – sunny though very windy, the clouds scudding along and providing a stunning canopy over these stones set in the open fields and gentle green slopes with grazing sheep and yellow patches of canola in the distance.

There is a sense of great space physically as well as in the huge span of time and spirits here. I felt awed yet calm as I kept thinking about the immense labours involved in bringing the stones here and erecting them, especially the sarsens. And I kept wondering over the mystery and many theories of why the ancient peoples built these stone circles and other similar sites in many other places. How fortunate we are to still have sites like Stonehenge as a way of reaching back and connecting with mankind’s ancient past.

I’d go back in a heartbeat.

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Other posts about our Ancient Britain Tour:
Salisbury
Old Sarum
Wiltshire Flint
White Horses
Silbury & West Kennet
Avebury

Ancient Britain: flint

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Odd title, I know. One of the very interesting tidbits of knowledge passed on by our tour guide was that the Wiltshire region of England, home of the ancient sites we visited on our tour, is well-known for its use of local stone as building material, including flint because it was readily available here. Apparently brick was more common in other areas like London.

I’ve heard of flint tools and its use with gunpowder but not as a building material. I have to admit to not even recognizing it when I kept seeing this strange and intriguing almost seashell-like material embedded with mortar and other stones on some garden walls in London, then again quite a lot of it in the town of Salisbury (top two photos) and the cathedral itself. The walls of Old Sarum are mostly flint, though looking more chalky (detail in bottom photo); you may want to look again at some of the photos at the link.

Funny how once made aware of it, I began to notice even more how flintstones were used in decorative ways on the walls of many old houses and small churches as we drove around Wiltshire’s villages. I wish we’d been able to photograph some of them, not easy from a moving van.

Here’s more interesting information about flint, including this: Brighton’s shingle beach is full of flints with fossils within them, much prized by the Victorians. I wish I’d known this when we were there for I might have tried some fossil hunting on the beach.

Posts about our Ancient Britain Tour:
Salisbury
Old Sarum
Stonehenge
White Horses
Silbury & West Kennet
Avebury

Ancient Britain: Old Sarum

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After visiting Salisbury on the first stop of a guided day tour to several ancient sites of Britain, we moved on to nearby Old Sarum. This hilltop is surrounded by banks and ditches with layers of 5,000 years of human settlement from the Neolithic to Celtic, Roman, Saxon, Viking and Norman until New Sarum (Salisbury) was established lower down the valley. It’s a fascinating and beautiful spot where I could sense the history and spirits of the ancient peoples within the stone walls and verdant slopes and the far views of the valley.

You may find this interesting additional reading: Old Sarum: A Layer-Cake of History.

My first encounter with Sarum was many years ago when I read Edward Rutherfurd’s Sarum, a vast work of historical fiction. I still remember my feelings of excitement over the early parts of the story covering the prehistoric period. Now I feel like I could reread it again with fresh new eyes.

Previous and later posts about our Ancient Britain Tour:

Salisbury
Wiltshire Flint
Stonehenge
White Horses
Silbury & West Kennet
Avebury

Ancient Britain: Salisbury

A highlight of our trip to the UK was a guided day tour to the ancient sites of Salisbury, Old Sarum, Stonehenge, West Kennet, Silbury Hill and Avebury. I don’t usually link to commercial sites but this tour pleased us so very much that I’m going to recommend at least reading it for the background so I don’t have to write so much. We truly enjoyed the knowledgeable and friendly guide/driver (I wished I’d recorded his fascinating stories) and that we were a small group of about fourteen in a van rather than an enormous bus. I’m having a hard time choosing from the many photos so each stop will merit its own post.

Being the first to be picked up, we got the choice seats at the front of the van. Once we were out of London and on smaller winding highway, we enjoyed the lovely greens and canola yellows of the Wiltshire countryside.

The town of Salisbury was our first stop. Here’s where the van was an advantage as we wove through the narrow old streets past interesting old buildings, doorways and arches towards Salisbury Cathedral.

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The cathedral, consecrated 751 years ago, is a lovely example of Early English Gothic architecture. I’m always awed by the amazing skills of the craftspeople of those early days, and even more astounding is that this was built in 38 years. Note the model of the construction in progress. A modern addition is the font as a reflecting pool with the water slowly pouring out of the four corners into floor drains and being recycled back.
After a short explanatory, we were on our own to wander about the cathedral and a bit of the town. Now that’s a town we could spend more time in to explore more!

Further posts about our Ancient Britain Tour:
Old Sarum
Wiltshire Flint
Stonehenge
White Horses
Silbury & West Kennet
Avebury